10 things I love about Camiguin

Fran Ng falls for the tiny island of Camiguin, off the northern coast of Mindanao, a great place for doing something...or doing nothing
DESTINATION GUIDE, October - November 2006

Sitting in the Mindanao Sea about 20km off the north coast of mainland Mindanao, the pint-sized island of Camiguin (“cam-ee-gin”) is one of the country’s most appealing tourist spots, with ivory beaches, iridescent lagoons and undulating scenery. There’s no shortage of adventure here either, with excellent scuba diving and some tremendous trekking and climbing in the rugged interior, especially on volcanic Mount Hibok-Hibok. Camiguin also has six other volcanoes, a multitude of hot springs, a submerged cemetery for divers to explore near the coastal town of Bonbon, a spring that gushes natural soda water, and 35 resorts, most in the northern half of the island but some on the southwest coast near Catarman.

Another major tourist draw is the annual Lanzones festival, held in the fourth week of October. Revellers dressed in lanzones leaves stomp and dance in the streets as a tribute to the humble fruit, one of the island’s major sources of income. The festival is one of the liveliest and most welcoming in the country, and this on an island already renowned for the friendliness of its people.

It’s also a peaceful, almost spiritual island, where residents are proud of their faith. Old Spanish documents indicate that Ferdinand Magellan and Miguel Lopez de Legazpi passed this way in 1521 and 1565 respectively, but it wasn’t until 1598, when the first Spanish settlement was established here, that the natives – mostly from nearby Surigao – converted to Catholicism.

1. The mountains and the beaches
Camiguin has some glorious coastline and a mountainous interior, so you can start your day on the beach and end it on a mountain peak. A beach-to-mountain trip takes 20 minutes by car or one hour by bike. Four of the island’s seven mountains are active volcanoes, and because of this, Camiguin is naturally blessed with hot springs - and a few cold ones too.
Camiguinons will proudly tell you they have a little of everything on their island. Boracay may have the most awesome white sand beach, but Camiguin has white sand just as fine on a pristine islet simply named White Island, just five minutes away by banca from Mambajao on the island’s north-east coast. White Island has no resorts whatsoever, so it feels like paradise. For something a bit special, Johnny’s Dive ’n’ Fun (www.johnnysdive.com) now organizes full moon parties here.
Camiguin also has three waterfalls, two mountain resorts (Ardent Hot Springs and Camiguin Highland), and its mountain air is crisp and cool. “What’s great here is you can try all these in one day,” says Patrick Glenn Dael, sports development officer of the provincial governor’s office.

2. Eat your heart out
Expats who’ve settled in Camiguin add a cosmopolitan touch to the cuisine. At Secret Cove Resort (www.secretcove camiguin.net) run by Canadian Tom Skolski and his Camiguinon wife Bida, you’ll find the simple pleasures of island living and nutritious, home-cooked food. In a bamboo gazebo right by the beach, you can eat German sausages fried just right, oven-baked Gruyere chicken with mushrooms, tender black angus steaks, tomatoes in olive oil drizzled on crunchy bruschetta, pancakes with Canadian maple syrup, and pizzas that rival anything that comes out of Italy. Also worth a mention is the triple-decker mango cheesecake topped with a rich dollop of cream.
Another cool place to eat is Green Tropical Pub in Baylao, owned by Austrian Frank Grunwald and his Filipino wife, Diona. Try the camaron rebosado (deep-fried, breaded shrimp) with chili sauce, which makes great pulutan (snack).
Indulging in a seafood feast at J&A Fishpen is an absolute must while you’re in Camiguin.
J&A is essentially a collection of native-style huts on an island in the middle of a natural lagoon, 30 minutes from Mambajao. Chefs will whip you up a kamayan feast (eaten with your fingers) of freshly caught seafood.
Try the sutukil, which is short for sugba (grill), tula (soup, like tinola), and kinilaw (diced raw fish soaked in vinegar). A scrumptious lunch for 10 people could consist of succulent king crabs, fish-head soup in a clay pot, fried shrimps, grilled fish, rice and drinks. This will cost around P2,000, so you get your money’s worth.

3. It’s budget-friendly
You’ll be surprised how cheap things are in Camiguin. A visit here will remind you that the best things in life are free, or almost free. Entrance fees to the well-maintained springs and waterfalls are P15 per adult and P8 per child. Ardent Hot Springs costs P30 for adults. You only have to shell out P25 to reach Katibawasan Falls from Mambajao town proper on a habal-habal or motorbike. Bring a packed lunch and rent a picnic table for P10, and you’ve got yourself a cool way to spend the day for only P50.
The lanzones fruit that Camiguin is famous for is also very cheap. When it’s in season from August to October, you can buy 1kg for P15.

4. It’s simply soulful
Unlike crowded, popular tourist spots where you sometimes feel like the tourists own the place, Camiguin retains its heart and soul. Locals appreciate and make use of their natural resources; they don’t just see their springs and waterfalls as a way to make money.
“When it’s fiesta time,” says Ethel Bacolcol of the local tourism office, “it’s our custom to end the day of street-dancing and parades by having a picnic at the springs with our families.” People suffering from arthritis and other muscle ailments visit Ardent Hot Springs for water therapy.
The locals have also carved their faith into their mountains. They’ve built a walkway on a seaside mountain called Old Volcano to mark the Stations of the Cross. During Holy Week, pilgrims gather here.
During their festivals, Camiguinons celebrate the indigenous culture of the Higaonon-Manobos, the original settlers. In colorful beaded costumes inspired by the Higaonons’ traditional attire, schoolchildren perform dances in the town plazas.

5. Dive, dive dive!
Camiguin’s volcanoes have given its underwater terrain a distinctive shape. Some of its many dive sites bear unique formations of old lava that has solidified into large, sulfur-toned rocks.
At Canyons, you’ll pass through a tunnel carved between lava rocks at 10 meters, and can fin your way down the sloping reef. At the Old Volcano dive site, your entry point is at six meters where you’ll pass between lava formations until you drop down to 14 meters. At about 30 meters, you’ll see huge fan corals, fusiliers, sergeant majors and snappers. I got to see a puffer fish that looked almost a meter long. Dive master Alan Grado of Johnny’s Dive ’n’ Fun says he has seen a white-tip shark three times here in the recent months.
Alan also recommends diving at Jigdup Reef. At 20 meters you enter a hole in the wall and rise up inside it to 10 meters, eventually reaching open water.

6. It’s the Galapagos of Southeast Asia
Secret Cove Resort’s Tom Skolski shows me a folder of news clippings about Camiguin that he’s filed over the years. “Treasures of Camiguin” catches my attention.
This Inquirer article dated April 2006 says that two new species — a “brightly plumaged parrot and a long-tailed forest mouse” — have been newly discovered to be endemic to the island.
Lawrence Heaney, curator of The Field Museum of Chicago and author of Vanishing Treasures of the Philippine Rainforest, says, “Knowing that at least 54 species of birds and at least 24 species of mammals live on Camiguin and that some of these animals are found nowhere else on earth, makes us realize how important this island is.”
Camiguin has 18% of its forest cover left intact. Let’s hope that the local government will ensure that its new farm-to-market roads going up the mountains don’t aggravate its rich forests.

7. The tour operators really know their stuff
Tour operators such as Johnny’s Dive ’n’ Fun (www.johnnysdive.com) can help you organize activities from mountain biking, motorcycling, trekking, fishing, rappelling down waterfalls, scuba diving, island-hopping, bird-watching, parasailing and waterskiing to finding a personal trainer for a good workout.
The guides are well-trained.
Johnny’s guide Richard Abreu says their most popular adventure tour is the Cross-Island, traversing the island from Mambajao to Catarman following a 21-km mountainous route.
On this trip, you’ll pass Tuasan Falls for rappelling and Santo Niño Cold Springs for a refreshing dip, ending the journey in Catarman.

8. Water, water everywhere
Spring water here naturally gushes out of the ground and waterfalls abound.
At Katibawasan Falls (easily accessible by car), I got to enjoy a good swim in its natural pool, with the 70-meter-high falls creating mist and spray around me. The water was cold and refreshing, the ground delightfully mossy, and small black birds locally called sag-sayaw skipped across the water, leaving “skid marks” as I swam.
The Bura Soda Water Pool in Catarman (40 minutes from Mambajao) was long enough to do laps in, and its soda water, which comes from the ground and enters the center of the pool through rocks, is truly refreshing.
The Santo Niño Cold Springs which has a rocky bottom and emits clear cold spring water through 24 spouts is also a must-visit site.
Ardent Hot Springs has several pools to choose from, including one that has the highest temperature, 38C. Dipping into the sulfur-enriched spring water feels like having a good soak in a hot tub.

9. Good roads with great vistas
Most of the sites you’ll want to see in Camiguin are not within walking distance of each other, so you’ll need a vehicle to get around. Luckily, the roads are good, and the drive around the island’s 64-kilometer perimeter road is especially scenic. You drive right by the coastline, so the sea feels near all the time.

10. That easy, peaceful feeling
Camiguin comes close to the idyll we all think island life should be, living up to its ranking as a peaceful and friendly province. It’s gratifying to know that there’s been no commercial logging here ever, so all the trees you see on the mountains are old-growth, virgin rainforests. There’s no movie theater and hardly any nightlife.
The locals still seem attuned to a not-too-modern way of life. Turn off your mobile, leave your PDA at home, kick back and relax. There’s simply no better place to escape to.
You can rent a van for the day (around P2000) or take your own vehicle on the RORO (roll-on, roll-off) from Cagayan de Oro. But the most exciting way to explore the island is by motorcycle. It’s easy to rent one, either to ride alone or with an experienced driver. Day rental is around P500 with P300 for the driver.

You can go almost anywhere by bike. Strike out along the coastal road and stop anywhere you want to. From the south of the island there are spectacular views of Mantigue Island, the northern tip of Mindanao, and the virgin forests of Mount Timpoong.

Where to stay
Secret Cove Beach Resort
Yumbing, Mambajao, Camiguin

Tel: 088/ 387 9084 or 088/ 387 9184
Mobile: 0916/ 367 3790
Email: tomskolski@fastmail.fm
Visit http://www.seair-inflight.com/www.secretcovecamiguin.net

Secret Cove is a cozy, well-maintained beachfront resort managed by Canadian Tom Skolski and his wife Bida. It only has a handful of rooms, so the service is personalized and you almost feel like a guest in the Skolskis’ home. Rooms range in price from P750 for a fan room to P1,400 in high season for an aircon double.

Where to book your adventures
Johnny’s Dive ’n’ Fun
Tel: 088/ 387 9588
With branches at Secret Cove Resort and Caves Dive Resort Visit www.johnnysdive.com

A boat dive costs US $20; five boat dives over two days are $95. Mountain bike day rental is $5 and a guide for climbing Hibok-Hibok is $30. Canyoning and rappelling above Katibawasan Waterfall is $35.

How to get there
SEAIR flies to Camiguin every Friday and Sunday via Cebu. Visit www.flyseair.com or call 02/ 849 0100 for bookings. It’s best to have a prior pick up arrangement on the day of your arrival with the resort you’re staying at.

From Cagayan de Oro you can take a bus or van from Agora Market to Balingoan port, 88km away. A hired van will cost around P1,200. The Balingoan ferry bound for Camiguin makes the one-hour crossing 14 times a day (P107/one way). The ferry schedule isn’t too reliable, so it’s best to be at the ferry station much earlier than you intend to.

Getting Around
It’s P2,500 to rent a van for the day and P2,000 for a jeepney. To visit the two islands near Camiguin (White Island and Mantigue Island) a boat costs about P450.

Banks and internet
The island has only one ATM machine at Land Bank in Mambajao. Some resorts and dive shops accept credit cards. There are four Internet Cafes in Mambajao, one at the tourism pavilion at the Old Wharf.

Information
Camiguin Tourism Office
Capitol Complex, Mambajao, Camiguin
Tel: 088/ 387 1097 local 119 or 120
Fax: 088/ 387 1022
Email: cam_tourism@yahoo.com
Visit http://www.seair-inflight.com/www.camiguin.gov.ph

Our thanks go to DOT Region XI Director Butch Chan, Camiguin governor Pedro Romualdo, DOT Tourism officer Candice Borromeo and Secret Cove Beach Resort owner Tom Skolski.

 

Come to Camiguin

By Isah V. Red
THE word is out. If you’re grossed out by the crowd in Boracay yet feel Club Med style resorts in Palawan are far too expensive for your budget, there’s a place somewhere off the coast off Misamis Oriental in the Bohol Sea where fun is affordable and the beaches are not crowded.

It’s an island called Camiguin, home to seven volcanoes that rise in the middle of the island. These volcanoes, most well known among them is Hibok-hibok, have shaped both the land and the culture of the people.

The pear-shaped Camiguin, according to Philippine history, used to be part of the district of Misamis during the Spanish regime. When Misamis was created as a separate corregimiento, Camiguin was made part of the new district as a division or partido de Catarman. In 1929, Camiguin, together with the eastern coast of Misamis became the province of Misamis Oriental. By virtue of Republic Act 5058 in 1957, it became a subprovince and through Republic Act 4669 in 1966, a province. In 1968, Camigueños celebrated their newfangled freedom from Misamis Oriental.

Up until this day, Camiguin as a province holds the record of having the least population in Northern Mindanao (Region X). It is also second to the smallest province in the Philippines.

Why come to Camiguin?

The island holds the Lanzones festival in the capital town of Mambajao (pronounced by the locals as mam-BA-haw) in October every year beginning on the 23rd until the 28th . The festival has become so popular that many of those who have come to Camiguin for a taste of the sweet tropical fruit also discovered many other things the island offers.

We went to the island at the peak of the hot season, months away from the famed Lanzones festival.

There are two ways to reach the island. The more popular route is via Cagayan de Oro where a ferry takes visitors to Mambajao. The other way, which is becoming more attractive to those who prefer a more convenient way to travel, is to fly to Cebu and take a connecting Seair flight to Mambajao. It’s a 35-minute ride on Seair’s LET 410. The downside of taking this route is Seair flies to Camiguin only three times (Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays) a week.

The Seair management, however, is ready to mount daily flights to the island once it sees encouraging signs in traffic. Cristina Chan of Camiguin Island Tours, a travel agency based in Mambajao is very optimistic about this possibility as she reports increase in inbound traffic since Seair started commercial operations to the island sometime this year.

Chan said apart from the Lanzones festival in October, Camiguin has become a popular destination for divers. Active, a travel magazine devoted to diving, recently named Camiguin as the seventh best divespots in the country. This is perhaps the reason why local entrepreneur Richard Abreu has invested in a chain of shops called Johnny’s Dive ‘n’ Fun. It has three shops now located in three resorts—Secret Cove Beach Resort, Caves Dive Resort and Bahay Bakasyunan—in Mambajao. The driving force in the dive shows is an American who found Camiguin more than a paradise. Johnny “T,” as he is fondly called by the locals considers the island as his home away from Southern California. He is a dive instructor in the island for the last couple of years after moving in from Cebu.

Johnny said there are about 14 major dive sites in the area, foremost of which is the While Island, a sandbar 10 minutes from the Secret Cove resort. The Reef slope (six to 20 m) is a feast for divers. There’s a “forest” of black corals on white sand, and an abundance of sting rays, moray eel, lion fish, frog fish, ribbon eels and sea snakes. For the more adventurous, Camiguin’s famed Sunken Cemetery is also an interesting destination. It’s also a 20-minute boat ride from Secret Cove.

Popular among visitors from the United States, Canada and Europe, it’s not easy to book a room at this charming by-the-beach resort. Well, it has only seven rooms, that are, year round (almost) occupied by tourists who have come to know about the Secret Cove by mere word of mouth. The place owned by a retired Canadian married to a Camigueña is also a popular destination for diners who are booked in other resorts. The menu is designed for tourists, dominated by western cuisine. The dishes are served hot right from the kitchen managed by the very affable owner, Tom Solski.

Solski’s fondness for Camiguin could be baffling to Filipinos who have met the guy for the first time. In a way, he has become an unofficial spokesman for the island. “I fell in love with the island the first time I came here,” he told us over dinner. “I don’t really know why, but I found the place really beautiful. And of course, how could I resist the charm of the island’s beautiful women?”

Tom and Johnny have decided to live in Camiguin for the rest of their lives. No, they’re not at all afraid that Hibok-hibok might once again unleash its deadly fury, the last of its most destructive eruptions was in July 1953 that killed 500.

Sights around the island

For those who are traveling for the first time to Camiguin, here are some interesting points you might want to visit.

Old Catarman Church Ruins

Located in Barangay Bonbon, 10 km from Catarman Poblacion. According to local history, the ruins are what were left the church after it was destroyed in the 1871 Vulcan Daan eruption. We noticed that a chapel is being built within the ruins. It is not only maladroit, but doesn’t at all make sense. I just hope the National Historical Commission do something about this and put a stop to the madness of some local government official.

Cross Marker and Sunken Cemetery

Some 15 km from Bonbon, Catarman, a huge cross put up in 1982 as marker of a cemetery that sank in 1871 during the Vulcan Daan eruption is within line of sight of those traveling around the island by land.

Camiguin doesn’t fall short of waterfalls—the 250 ft high Katibawasan Falls about 5 km southeast of Mambajao and Tuasan Falls 6 km northeast of Catarman.

There are also a number of springs—hot and cold —that have become favorite picnic grounds among locals. The two more popular are Ardent Hot Springs, Tangub Hot Springs, also perfect for diving. Temperature is determined by high or low tide.

Mountain climbing and rappelling are also becoming a favorite extreme sports among visitors and Mt. Hibok-Hibok is the top destination, which is approached from the base in Barangay Esperanza, Mambajao. The 1,250 m slope, loose rocks and boulders are among the challenges.

Old Vulcan, 13 km west of Mambajao, has a 70 to 80 m drop-off.

For those who simply want to soak up the sun, White Island, 2 km across Agoho or Yumbing beaches, beckon. The uninhabited sand- bar is a favorite sightseeing destination among Koreans. So is Mantigue Island, 3 km offshore across Hubangon and San Roque in Mahinog town. It is a four hectare forest-fringed white sand beach.

Tourist class accommodations

While most travelers to Camiguin may prefer to stay in resorts near the beach like Paras Beach Resort (P5, 450 two to three in a room per day), Secret Cove (P2, 400 fan; P2,700 aircon room), there are also accommodations that may not have a beachfront but as charming.

Take for example Camiguin Higland Resort in Baranggay Soro-soro. At night it looks like a bejeweled mansion in Louisiana. The three-story hotel is the latest addition to Camiguin’s booming tourism. All rooms are airconditioned with private baths, cable TV and telephone. It has a coffee shop, a videoke room and business center. If your complexion doesn’t take to saltwater too easily, the resort has a pool with manmade falls, a Jacuzzi. Night swimming is popular as the pool is lit from underneath.

Room rates are reasonable (P3,300 a night).

For more information on tourist accommodations in Camiguin call Camiguin Island Tours at (032)233-9688 or 0917-7222247.

Pastel to go

Three days will not be enough to experience Camiguin to the fullest, not to mention the specialties that have made Camiguin a buzzword among people with good taste. We were told not to go back to Manila without having a taste of the famed pastel, a bun made special with sweet filling (yema). And guess where the best pastel is found in the island, at a store called VJANDEP Bakeshop and Refreshment on Plaridel Street in the central business district of Mambajao.

VJ stands for Virgilio Jose, a retired Armed Forces officer, and EP for Eleanor Popera, his wife.

The pastel the Mambajaonons now know had gone through recipe change after Eleanor attended a baking seminar in Cagayan de Oro. And ever since business has never been so good, the couple has opened a branch in Cagayan de Oro. While they have yet to put up one in Manila, those who have tasted it are ordering in bulk from Camiguin and reselling them in Manila.

We bought some too along with baked siopao, which Eleanor said is now a bestseller, second only to the shop’s pastel.

With boxes of pastel and baked siopao, we proceeded to Camiguin’s airport, which the local government hopes to improve when tourists start flocking in droves.

As we board our Seair aircraft to Cebu for our return flight to Manila via Cebu Pacific, we bid our hosts goodbye. The trip wasn’t just fun, it was an enlightening experience to us who previously had never been to this part of the archipelago. “Thank you for the wonderful time in the island,” we chimed. And our hosts chorused, “You are welcome and please, Camiguin!”

 

 
Copyright ©2005
Secret Cove Beach Resort
Yumbing, Mambajao
Camiguin Island, Philippines